Hand-fed birds are those sequestered from their nest as soon as they are hatched and fed by hand until they fledge. Such birds are widely regarded as the gold standard in bird keeping. Behavioral problems are common amongst hand-reared babies, leading to controversy about the benefit of this approach. Generally, hand-reared individuals tend to be intelligent, adjustable animals, who develop distinct identities.

Benefits of hand fed baby birds

As a general rule, hand-reared birds make idyllic pets as they are calmer around people and easier to train than those raised by their parents. They tend to be less affected by environmental stressors and new entities or animals. Hand-fed birds demand human companionship and may prefer people to their own species.

The drawbacks to having a hand-fed baby bird

The aforementioned benefits may boomerang and affect both bird and owner. Hand-fed birds regardless of gender may view human beings as potential mates and adversaries. When it’s breeding season, such birds can be very hostile toward “mates” that don’t respond desirably, and to people that they feel are competing for their mate’s affection. Moving out physically can be an issue for hand-reared birds. Activities like climbing, handling food, flying, and perching can be problematic for birds that have not enjoyed the benefit of parental grooming.

Co-parenting

This approach involves the rearing of birds who are nurtured and cared for by their parents but and groomed by human keepers daily. In many quarters, it is the ideal counterbalance between hand- and parent-rearing. The keeper can spend around fifteen to thirty minutes handling the bird daily, starting from weeks 4 to 5 of the chick’s existence. This technique has been known to develop relative domesticated babies. Intriguingly, some co-parented birds seem to be less terrified at the sight of new objects and environmental fluctuations than hand-reared ones. Co-parented birds pick up vital maneuvers from their parents and often better in terms of wellness and size than those that are hand-fed. Raising babies with a formula is rife with difficulties. The main downside of co-parenting is the defensive and hostile behavior from bird parents. Long-term, affectionate pets may violently guard their nests against intrusion. There is also the danger of severe bites, while the day-to-day movement of the baby in and out of the nest may stress the adult out, leading to ailments due to weakened immune systems. Stressed parents tend to attack their babies, sometimes fatally. At King’s Cages, we pride ourselves on being the foremost authority on bird wellness concerns. Visit www.kingscages.com to view all our offerings.

Pet parents clicker-train to teach their pets to enhance communication with them. Clicker training can be done with birds as well as whales, horses, and dogs.

Clicker training tools

All you need to click-train your bird is a clicker – the device that makes a click sound when the button is pressed, and your bird’s favorite treat. Clicker training is used on your bird to elicit a response like getting to wave, step up, or to teach it tricks and perform other unique acts.

Clicker

Clickers come in different shapes and colors and can be found at pet supply shops online. When choosing a clicker, try it by clicking it a few times to ensure that it’s loose enough for comfortable use. Some clickers have more resistivity than others and can be discomforting when you apply too much thumb pressure to generate the sound. You want to generate the “click” tone more quickly as the whole point of the device is to tell the bird the exact moment that it has to do something. So, ensure that you don’t have to slip-up with the clicker when getting the click out.

Treats

Now that your clicker is all set you need some healthy, tasty bird treats to reward your winged friend for a well-done job. Keep the following tips in mind when picking training treats for your pet.

Choose a healthy combo

Expect to repeat your training routine with your pet several times daily, so you want to makes sure that the reward you bestow on your bird is not only delicious but is nutritionally enriching and low in fat. Tasty treats for training birds include fresh foods like veggies and fruits, with seeds and nuts thrown up occasionally for variety.

Cut treat into digestible chunks

If your pet gets full quickly, it may not be eager to put more effort into winning more treats. To get the most out of your training routines, use tiny pieces of the treat so that your bird is rewarded without getting bloated within the first few minutes. Tiny bits of diced apple or grape are great training treats that will delight and satisfy your pet without overfeeding it.

How to click-train your bird

Now that you have your clicker and the tasty bird treats, it’s time to move onto the next phase – conditioning the bird to recognize the clicker and what the click indicates. Make sure your bird identifies the device as a positive object. Simply click the clicker and hand your bird it’s a treat. These two steps reenact B.F. Skinner’s landmark experiment every time – click and reward, click and reward, over and over. Once you notice your pet anticipating the incoming reward, you know it is going to grab it. He now understands what comes next after the click – the reward. This association exercise may be done in a one-off training, or after several rounds. You need to train your bird for a few minutes when it’s a bit hungry to increase the chances of accepting the reward. At King’s Cages, we pride ourselves on being the foremost authority on bird wellness concerns. Need a bird care product, head over to www.kingscages.com to view our vast array of bird wellness products.

Without a doubt, feathers captivate our attention more than other bird qualities. But what is its nature, where does the red feather of birds come from? Is it a function of the light that illumes the birds, the nature of the feathers, or a genetic factor popularly called the red factor? The red gene factor seems to be the most sung explanation, where red factor canaries are described by researchers as the outcomes of hybridization experiments conducted 100 years ago between domesticated yellow canaries and wild red siskins. However, for the yellow-shafted northern flicker, the “you are what you eat maxim” has proven to be astonishingly true. The eastern North American woodpecker gets its name from a thin tone of yellow that runs through the middle of its dark feathers. In the past few decades, ornithologists, have observed that some bird’s yellow plumage have inexplicably turned red. Initially, the scientists thought that the birds were interbreeding with the red-shafted northern flicker, which resides in the West, but these rare red birds are thousands of miles away. The answer was traced to their diets: the birds were ingesting red berries according to studies from The Auk. It turns out that red, yellow, and orange tones prevalent in bird feathers derive from the pigments in the food they eat. The cedar waxwing, with no close red-feathered relative were discovered by scientists to have a steep obsession for berries. So much so that they died of over-binging after eating lots of overripe berries. In a more physiological argument, every bird color is produced by the interplay of two coloring mechanisms – one structural, the other, chemical. Structural color comes from the scattering of reflected light, while chemical color depends on a range of pigments. The complex arrangement of feather layers enables structure and chemistry (pigmentation), blending to produce the colors that we see.

Why cardinals are red

Pigments can absorb some wavelengths of light while reflecting others. The absorbed color vanishes while the reflected tone becomes what we see. Pigments in the plumage of the cardinal reflect red light and absorb all the other wavelengths. The most common pigments and melanin and carotenoids. Melanin is responsible for black, brown, and gray colors in birds and mammals. Blackbirds like ravens and crows have melanin in both cortex and the core. Carotenoid pigments, characterized by red, yellow, and orange feather tones can accumulate through diets such as flowers, roots, fruits, and seeds, and can be modified in different ways. The dogwood tree develops bright red berries during autumn. It’s a Northern Cardinal’s favorite and a source or red carotenoids. When the cardinal eats these berries, the carotenoid pigments are isolated by the liver and are sent to the blood for deposition in growing feather follicles. These carotenoids are dumped in the cortex only and not in the feather core. The cardinal also obtains red and orange pigments from several seed sources, constantly maintaining its eye-popping red plumage. A caged cardinal that is fed seeds with zero carotenoids will lose its rosy brilliance after repeated molts.

Some birds get blighted by beak deformities. These may include an overgrown beak, underscored by the elongation of the upper and lower beak, resulting in a scissor beak - which is a horizontal deviancy of the upper and lower beaks, and mandibular prognatism, where the tip of the rhinotheca sits on or inside or the gnatotheca.

Nutritional deficiencies

Overgrown beaks point to genetics and nutritional defects during the bird’s development. These deficiencies may manifest a liver disease due to excessive fat and undernutrition in the diet. A bird deprived of calcium and vitamin D can lead to soft, rubbery, saggy beaks, culminating in overgrown bills, especially in smaller birds like cockatiels. Some birds also demonstrate overgrown nails and claws. Simply place your pet on a balanced diet and these symptoms can be reversed.

Infections

Many bacterial, fungal, parasitic, and viral pathogens can explain why a bird’s beak can grow rapidly. Some noticeable symptoms include psittacine beaks, scaly legs and face ticks, and feather syndrome. If you discover something abnormal about your bird’s bill, notify your veterinarian asap!

Poor lighting

Vitamin D is essential for your bird’s overall health. Birds depend on Ultraviolet light from direct sunlight to synthesizes Vitamin D, essential for bill and bone health. Indoor birds do not have the luxury of this phenomenon as windows block UV ray exposure time and intensity. Vitamin D deficiency may lead to soft, saggy bones and abnormal upper beak growth.

Trauma

Trauma is a known cause of beak elongation and deformity in caged birds. Beak growth is dependent on the contact angle between the tips of the upper (maxilla) and lower (mandibular). Injuries to these tips can lead to the malformation and deformation of the beak.

Incorrect handfeeding

Perhaps the pet owner maintains an inappropriate feeding implement that applies pressure against the bird’s beak, resulting in deformations. They may also apply excessive pressure when cleaning the rostrum. Administer food to your bird by introducing a syringe or eyedropper into its mouth. This is relatively easy as it will be excited that it’s getting fed and will gape with its beak open wide to receive the formula. Where the bird doesn’t gape, a soft tapping of the beak with the feeding contraption will prompt the bird to open its mouth. The tool should be carefully passed into the left side towards the right side of the open beak. The administration of the formula should coincide with swallowing. Bird swallow with a strange repeated bobbing of the head in an up-down motion. While the bird swallows, the formula is dispensed rapidly. Over time, the bird develops quick feet for the activity, and when performed accurately, the filling of the crop can be achieved in an impressively short time. At King’s Cages, we pride ourselves on being the foremost authority on bird wellness concerns. Head over to www.kingscages.com to view our vast array of bird wellness products.

Like a fingernail, a bird’s pecker comprises living tissue that grows throughout its life. The beak is made up of bone covered by a thin layer of skin and a constantly growing hard keratin protein layer. Birds use their beak as a tool to grasp onto things, to maintain balance as they forage about

Do bird beaks overgrow?

Yes. Pet birds, unlike their wild counterparts, do not have many opportunities to wear down their beaks because they do not hunt for, collect food, and build nests. This comparative underuse means that pet-bird beaks usually overgrow. Beak overgrowth can be caused by viral, parasitic, and bacterial infections in the same way that nutritional deficiencies, metabolic imbalances, and physical trauma does. In some cases, overgrowth happens within weeks, whereas in other cases, it may take months for the outgrowth to become conspicuous.

Knowing when to trim a bird’s beak

If a pet owner senses that his bird’s beak has overgrown, then they should have it trimmed. The most common beak trimming exercise is performed with the electrically powered Dremel Drill. Basically, the bird is covered with a towel by the driller, while another person holds it still gently. The driller uses the sides of a conically-shaped grinding drill stone to grind the beak’s tip one moment at a time, ensuring that they don’t overstrain the bird or drill long enough that the machine overheats. The driller must be mindful not to clip too much from the pecker, otherwise, the drill may nick a blood vessel or nerve, resulting in bleeding and excruciating pain for the bird. The beaks of Small birds like budgies, finches, and cockatiels can be clipped using an emery board. We would not recommend the use of handheld tools like toenail clippers or any gardening tool. These tools may lead to accidental splits and cracks, as well as the jolting of the base of the beak, where the keratinous layer forms, which may lead to possible beak malformation in the future. Unless you’re versed in veterinary practice, you should not attempt to clip your pet’s beak. You risk injury to both yourself and your pet. So, if you discover that your bird’s nibblers loo elongated, unshapely, and abnormal, you can schedule an appointment with an avian vet. At King’s Cages, we pride ourselves on being the foremost authority on bird wellness concerns. Contact us to locate a vet near you to perform a bird beak trimming procedure. The vet will gently fritter away the superfluous layers of the pecker in a way that matches the natural erosion of the beak in wildlife, resulting in a more naturalistic appearance while lowering the probability of injury to your winged friend.

And when the procedure is done…

The bird is certainly stressed from the day’s appointment, so it’s necessary to take it home to its cage. Caress it as it is accustomed to reassure him that you love him, but only briefly; most birds prefer to be left alone for some time after enduring a grueling visit to the vet. Make fresh water available for it and an abundance of tasty treats. Dissuade friends and visitors from unsettling the bird until it has recommenced its regular activity.

In order to ensure that your winged friend enjoys optimal health, it’s crucial to provide them with all the requisite furniture so they can remain healthy. The right perch is one of these conveniences as it helps prevent blisters and sores. Sand perches can be harmful to your pet, negating the entire point of obtaining a perch in the first place. Sand perches are generally considered a no-no for birds because the tough, scratchy surfaces of these little pews can cause serious harm to your bird’s feet. Birds spend most of their time standing, and perches, no matter its texture, give birds something to remain perched on, bite on when they are hungry, and something to scratch their beaks on. Perches are also a reliable stance from where they can monitor their entire area and a safe relaxation port. Sand perches, on the other hand, are often perceived to cause more harm than good. It can cause painful scraped abrasions to the underside of the pet’s feet, giving room for bacteria and muck to blight it. Sand perches can also be a cause of great anxiety and discomfort to the bird. This doesn’t mean sand perches cannot be used entirely.

Using sand perches the right way

The appropriate use of sand, sand sprayed, or concrete perches starts by appreciating how birds respond to them compared to wooden or rope perches.

• Conures and ekkie parrots like to have their perch located in front of their water bowl so that they can wear their toenails and wipe their beaks after having a drink.
• As an optional appendage, sand perches are best located high up the cage where it can go to have its pedicure. Birds always like to roost as high as possible, so you can get sandy perches that are not gritty at the top. Connoisseurs of sandy perches claim it’s easier than having to wrap the bird in a towel every few weeks, trimming their nails.
• Use sand perches as an additional perch in the cage. Ensure you have at least 5 to 10 perches to enable the bird to enjoy a more naturalistic abode. It’s best to use sand perches with clean, natural, non-dowel wooden perches, and rope perches. Some bird parents prefer sand perches as the lowest perch in the cage setup.
• Look for sand perches with dimples to protect birdy’s footpads. They should also have a sparkling glitter that is both attractive and stimulating.
• Ensure that the sand perches are lightweight and durable as they maintain the right temperature for comfortable settling.
• As with everything else, it is important to monitor your bird’s wellness to see if the sand perch is causing uneasiness in your bird. Sand perches may get a bad rap from bird parents, but it all depends on how well you are looking after your pet.

At King’s Cages, we pride ourselves on being the foremost authority on bird wellness concerns. Need a sand perch? Head over to www.kingscages.com to place an order.

All pet birds need safe and secure housing, especially when you don’t have a large aviary where your bird can fly freely. Many pet owners and pet storekeepers have the impression that a small bird needs a small cage. This conviction is wrong. Birds need ample space to play, exercise, fly, and explore.

Cage sizes and bar spacing guidelines for pet birds

Dimensions are expressed in width x length x height in inches. Finches: 18 x 30 x 18 inches’ minimum cage size with ¼ to ½-inch bar spacing. Canaries: 18 x 24 x 18 inches’ minimum cage size with ¼ to ½-inch bar spacing. Budgies and parakeets: 18 x 18 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with ½ bar spacing. Cockatiels: 20 x 20 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with ½ to 5/8-inch bar spacing. Lovebirds: 24 x 24 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with ½ bar spacing Parrotlets: 24 x 24 x 24 minimum cage size with ½ bar spacing. Ringneck parakeets: 24 x 24 x 36 inches’ minimum cage size with ½ to 5/8-inch bar spacing. Quaker parrots: 24 x 24 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with 5/8 to ¾-inch bar spacing. Conures: 24 x 24 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with 5/8 to ¾-inch bar spacing. Poicephalus: 24 x 24 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with 5/8 to ¾-inch bar spacing. Caiques: 24 x 24 x 36 inches’ minimum cage size with 5/8 to ¾-inch bar spacing. Jardines: 24 x 24 x 36 inches’ minimum cage size with 5/8 to ¾-inch bar spacing. Amazon parrots: 24 x 36 x 48 inches’ minimum cage size with ¾ to 1-inch bar spacing. Mini macaws: 24 x 36 x 48 inches’ minimum cage size with ¾ to 1-inch bar spacing. Goffin cockatoos: 24 x 36 x 48 inches’ minimum cage size with ¾ to 1-inch bar spacing. African grey parrots: 24 x 36 x 48 inches’ minimum cage size with ¾ to 1-inch bar spacing. Large cockatoos: 36 x 48 x 48 inches’ minimum cage size with 1 to 1.5-inch bar spacing. Large macaws: 36 x 48 x 48 inches’ minimum cage size with 1 to 1.5-inch bar spacing. Diamond doves: 24 x 24 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with ½-inch or less bar spacing. Ringneck doves: 24 x 36 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with ½ bar spacing. Pigeons: 24 x 36 x 24 inches’ minimum cage size with ½ bar spacing.

Other general considerations

1. The width of the cage for a pair of birds should be at least thrice their combined wingspan
2. The length of the cage should allow at least 2 wing flaps between perches (the more flaps the better). Perches should be placed far enough from the ends of the cage to enable the pets to turn around on the perches without scraping their tail feathers against the cage.
3. The minimum height of the cage should be thrice its length from the head to the tip of the tail of the largest bird to be held in it.

There is no doubt that perches are a vital part of the environment of any pet bird. You need to have different perches in the cage of your bird with varying surfaces and diameters.

Several Diameters and Surfaces

Your bird is standing when it is not flying. It is very seldom that you see your bird sitting or lying down. Hence, perches for your pet bird have a tremendous amount of importance. Birds use these perches for climbing, standing, rubbing, playing, chewing, cleaning their beaks, or any other kind of entertainment. These perches must be of varying sizes and offer the opportunity for your pet to comfortably and firmly grasp or grip the perch and not simply stand on it with its feet open. If stunned, birds are not very likely to fall or slip off from the perch that they can tightly grasp. Perches of varying sizes offer better exercise for your bird's feet and enable it to pick what is comfortable. You should know that birds tend to get sore feet if the diameter of the perch is the same all the time. Hence, it is necessary to have a variety of diameters where perches are concerned.

Best Types of Perch Surfaces

The following are some of the best types of perch surfaces that you can put in your bird's environment to ensure the creature enjoys its time when it is not hanging out with its people. A good practice would be to have one perch of each kind in the environment of your bird.

Rope Perches

Rope perches are pliable, soft, and simple to shape so that your pet bird has a fun and unique place to walk on. You may make these rope perches into different entertaining shapes for your pet to walk on, like twisting and turning them and making them into spirals or squiggly lines. You can even bend the rope into an S shape, which is what most bird owners do. The softness of such perches is fantastic; it is similar to how we feel when we are walking on a nice carpet or soft grass. Your bird may get an irritation on the undersides of its tiny feet if you force it to walk on some hard surface all the time. Hence, having a soft spot for your pet to play and walk on is very helpful. Make sure you consider the thickness and size of the rope when you buy it.

Natural branches

Natural branches make for very economical and great bird perches. They offer a natural surface for the feet of the bird and provide several hours of chewing joy! Make sure that you clean and scrub the branch using a detergent and rinse thoroughly. Let the branches dry up under the sun or bake for half an hour in the oven at around 170 degrees Fahrenheit. Moreover, leave the bark on for chewing and texture.

Plastics

When it comes to plastic as a perch surface for your pet bird, there are generally two types here, PVC and acrylic. Both of these materials are very popular owing to their ease of cleaning and sturdiness. That said, Acrylic is a better choice between these two since this material practically everlasting. Bear in mind though that for some of the birds such as parrots, having a perch which they can chew is very vital. If you are making use of plastics,  be sure to add other perch options (that your pet can chew) to the environment of your bird. PVC easily and too often ends up in small pieces in the stomach of a bird and that can result in some medical issues, along with boredom and slippery footing. Perches made of plastic are usually very slippery to be comfy (especially for wing-clipped and heavy-bodied birds), although a few perch manufacturers try to solve this problem by grazing the perch’s surface. If you would like to offer a plastic perch for your pet bird, you may do the same by using some sandpaper.

Mineral Perches

Almost each bird ought to have at least a single mineral perch also referred to as a cement or concrete perch. Its texture which is quite rough feels very pleasant underfoot, and its surface is ideal as well for assisting to keep the bird’s beaks well groomed and cleaned (these creatures very much like to use the rough surface to wipe their beaks against) and its nails blunt.

Most of the bird owners wonder often is it suitable to bathe your bird. The truth is that there is no hard and fast answer to that question. Read on to learn more!

How Often and When should You Bathe Your Bird?

It would help if you offered a bath to your bird daily. Whether the creature opts to bathe daily depends on its mood and preferences. The majority of the pet birds tend to take pleasure in bathing each day, while others only like to bathe sporadically. You should encourage your bird to bathe regularly, as their skin and feathers will appear to be much healthier if they bathe regularly. You can begin by offering a bath to your pet bird twice or even once every week. You might observe that your bird has a certain fondness regarding the time of the day it prefers to bathe. A great tip is to offer the bath to your bird or gently bring it to the shower area at the specific time of day it likes to bathe. Another thing you should know is that bathing your bird in the morning time might offer greater opportunity to dry. A warm and sunny room devoid of any drafts provides your pet bird with a very relaxed and convenient setting to preen and dry out while making sure it does not get too chilled. Some of the birds enjoy it when you dry them a warm hairdryer. However, that said, you need to take meticulous care not to overheat your pet or forcefully dry it with a hairdryer if it is scared by it. When you do it properly, there is no denying that bathing can be just as much an enjoyable experience for you as it is for your adorable bird.

What Should you Bathe Your Bird With?

If you have a healthy bird with regular plumage, tap water at a little warm temperature is often ideal, given that the water is appropriate for consumption by your pet and your family. Moreover, bottled spring water is a good option as well. However, it is in your best interest to steer clear from distilled water to bathe your bird as it does not have sufficient dissolved salts, minerals, and ions. Mists and sprays that are commercially available and designed to clean your bird's feathers are benign, and you can use them as a substitute to water in a bottle spray. However, before making use of any of such products on your birds, it is best to closely read the label, and reach out to your avian veterinarian to make sure that the said product is completely safe and does not pose any risk all to your bird. Some vets do not recommend using certain kinds of sprays like mite sprays, which comprise insecticides or medications. If your pet bird has a particular medical condition like mites, it is only prudent to consult with your avian veterinarian for suitable treatment and diagnosis.

How to Bathe Your Bird?

You have to provide the warm water as your bird will be doing most of the work during its bath! Some birds like to splash in a water dish and try to immerse themselves in the cups they drink. There are bathing chambers that fix to the bird cage's side and prevent water from spilling in the room. Another great and convenient place for your birds to take a bath is in a shallow water sink. Most pet birds enjoy frolicking under a light dribble of water coming down from the tap while fluttering their wings and sinking their pretty heads in the water. You can also make use of a spray bottle like a plant mister to mist your bird very gently. Birds tend to enjoy bathing this way very much! Your bird might even like taking a shower with you and be content sitting atop a perch that attaches to the tile with cups (suction ones) at the shower's back. It would help if you kept in mind that water's direct pressure from the head of the shower might hurt or frighten your pet. Hence, you ought to fix a perch away from the direct water spray, where your bird can delicately splash itself. Furthermore, it is vital to know that you should not use commercial bathing solutions on your bird that comprise soaps, chemicals, or other harmful ingredients.

Birds make amazing pets. They look beautiful and are low maintenance. However, did you know that birds are highly intelligent? Therefore, you need to entertain them as much they entertain you. Birds are explorers. They love discovering new habitats for themselves. Therefore, you need to rearrange their cages to keep them entertained. You can rearrange their cage in different ways, you can get a new cage all together, rearrange it, or you can add a few interesting elements to their cage. In this article, I will tell how you rearrange your feathery friend’s cage to keep them entertained for a long time.

Hacks to rearrange your Bird’s Cage

Rearranging your bird’s cage sounds very costly. However, that is not the case. You can make a few adjustments in its cage and move a thing or two here and there. That way, you can make it look new for your bird.

Clean it All Up

Cleaning your bird’s cage will make a lot of difference. Your bird might make a lot of mess by dropping food and waste in its cage. Therefore, before redecorating its cage, you must clean your pet’s cage efficiently. It will provide her with a new environment to explore.

Change the Position of Swings and Rods

Your bird gets bored with playing with swings in the same place. Therefore, to keep her entertained, you need to change your bird’s swings often. The swings must be your bird’s favorite place to sit. Therefore, when you change its position, it will take your bird by surprise. It is similar to the rods. Your bird rests on the rods in its cage. Therefore, when you change its position, the bird will love the little surprise. However, while changing the position, keep in mind not to put the rod and swing in a place where their bodies can get uncomfortable.

Rotate the Bird’s Toy

Your bird is your super-smart prodigy child and can get bored with its environment very easily. You need to provide your bird with new toys often. However, if you do not have enough money for that, you can change the position of the toy. Alternatively, you can rotate the toy. It will be good enough to trick your bird’s brain.

Paint the Cage

Painting your bird’s cage is a cost-effective yet smart way to renovate your bird’s home. The change in color will be interesting for him. Not to mention, during the painting and drying session, your bird can enjoy some time outside of the cage with its people.

Add Some Bird Bunkers

Birds are very shy. They do not like to do things out in the open. They need privacy while reproduction, and their hiding place helps them feel more secure. Thus, it would help if you had a bird bunker in your birds’ cage. If your birds have a bunker, I suggest that you redecorate it a little and then put it back in their cage. However, while redecorating, make sure the birds’ didn’t lay any eggs in the bunks. If they did, you shouldn’t clean the bunker. If the birds get a hint that an intruder touched their eggs, they will break the eggs before they hatch. If they have not laid eggs, you can decorate the inside of the bunker according to their liking.

Cage Cover

If you want your birds to be healthy and beautiful, you need to provide them with appropriate darkness and privacy. Therefore, getting a cage cover can be a great investment. A cage cover ensures that there is darkness inside your bird’s cage, even when the lights are on in your room. Proper sleep is essential for your bird to grow healthy feathers. Not to mention, birds follow a circadian cycle. If you stay up late or have your lights on throughout the night, your birds should have a cage cover so they can sleep for at least 16 hours without disturbance.

Seed Catcher

Your bird is not like you. It can drop its feed everywhere and make a mess. In this case, the seed catcher will help you collect dropped seeds and keep you from wasting your bird food.

Final Feedback

Birds are precious. They look beautiful, and only looking at them brings a lot of peace. Therefore, providing them with favorable conditions is essential. Hence, rearranging your pet’s cage will get them busy in discovering the new parts of the cage.